Oil Level

steelers

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sorry man, u must be lucky to live in the cheaper USA, but in Ontario Canada, not so cheap... synthetic oil changes are the chain stores are close to $100 plus tax and much more at the dealers, that's why i do them myself, and a Palisade is a SUV, my Elantra is a car, the most relialbe car i have ever owned....ps, i do own a bike too....haha , try some happy pills, u come across as being grumpy
$100..whew ... wow..big deal..ya bought a $50000 vehicle and oil changes are a concern...
Grumpy? Not any more ..you make me laugh.
 

Scott M

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This is my first Hyundai and I have noticed that if I pull the stick out the oil will read low about a half inch below the full line, but if I wipe and reinsert it checks full. I haven’t seen this much variance before usually it’s an eighth inch or less. I thought it was a quart low the first time I checked it. The car was cold and in my garage. I have over 17k miles and it uses no oil.
I am not doubting your abilities just something to consider.
I experienced the same. Pull the stick and wipe clean, reinsert the stick and the read will be correct.
 

Alan_F

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I experienced the same. Pull the stick and wipe clean, reinsert the stick and the read will be correct.
I understand that the reading is higher when you do that, but how do you know it is correct? When you pull the dipstick, it usually drags oil up the dipstick tube, which gets on the diptstick when you put it back in, and could lead to an incorrect reading.

However, anytime one takes a dipstick reading too soon after the engine has stopped, it will typically read lower than actual, because all of the oil has not yet settled back into the crankcase from the various parts of the engine.
 

Leeman

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I understand that the reading is higher when you do that, but how do you know it is correct? When you pull the dipstick, it usually drags oil up the dipstick tube, which gets on the diptstick when you put it back in, and could lead to an incorrect reading.

However, anytime one takes a dipstick reading too soon after the engine has stopped, it will typically read lower than actual, because all of the oil has not yet settled back into the crankcase from the various parts of the engine.
It's been my experience that when a car has been sitting for a while (in my case over 24 hrs) you pull the dipstick and that should give you an accurate reading.

You make a good point. I was so happy that it wasn't burning/using oil that I forgot about the dipstick drag thing. However, it consistently has the same reading every time I re-wipe and and check it after the initial reading. For what it's worth I will ask my dealer when I take it in for the 2nd oil change. I've got about 11,700 miles on it now.
 

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Alan_F

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It's been my experience that when a car has been sitting for a while (in my case over 24 hrs) you pull the dipstick and that should give you an accurate reading.

You make a good point. I was so happy that it wasn't burning/using oil that I forgot about the dipstick drag thing. However, it consistently has the same reading every time I re-wipe and and check it after the initial reading. For what it's worth I will ask my dealer when I take it in for the 2nd oil change. I've got about 11,700 miles on it now.
I completely agree with your first statement.

Regarding the consistency of pulling the stick, wiping the stick, reinserting it, and pulling it back out, leading to consistent oil levels on the dipstick, that could be because each time you pull it out you consistently drag oil up the tube which messes up the level shown on the dipstick. In my experience with owning a Hyundai V6 Lambda engine for 10 years, you can't get an accurate reading on a dipstick until all the oil has drained downed into the oil pan, including any oil in the dipstick tube (from pulling the stick out).

Don't bother asking a Hyundai service manager, advisor, or technician. They have no frigg'in idea. I tried that with my Hyundai Genesis 10 years ago and they have no idea what they are talking about, and usually the least experienced "techs" do the oil changes.
 

joliver

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sorry man, u must be lucky to live in the cheaper USA, but in Ontario Canada, not so cheap... synthetic oil changes are the chain stores are close to $100 plus tax and much more at the dealers, that's why i do them myself, and a Palisade is a SUV, my Elantra is a car, the most relialbe car i have ever owned....ps, i do own a bike too....haha , try some happy pills, u come across as being grumpy
What's the point in paying huge amounts for synthetic? Great, your oil is supposed to last far longer... but your filter isn't. Trying to reclaim the oil to replace the filter is just a PITA.

I get an oil change every 5000 miles. Regular old oil. Check it right before the next change... if it's super dark, watery, etc. then maybe paying for synthetic makes sense. If it's still oil, paying more is pouring your money down the drain, literally.
 

Alan_F

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What's the point in paying huge amounts for synthetic? Great, your oil is supposed to last far longer... but your filter isn't. Trying to reclaim the oil to replace the filter is just a PITA.

I get an oil change every 5000 miles. Regular old oil. Check it right before the next change... if it's super dark, watery, etc. then maybe paying for synthetic makes sense. If it's still oil, paying more is pouring your money down the drain, literally.
Although many oil change shops rip off customers when it comes to synthetic oil changes, you can buy a decent quality synthetic for about $17 for a 5-quart jug. Look for the following brands: Costco Kirkland Synthetic, or Walmart Supertech Synthetic. If you cant change the oil yourself, find a shop that will use the oil you supply and ask them the price of the change. Personally, I would also supply the oil filter using the OEM filter.

According to the owner's manual, the Palisade requires 5W-30, with a ACEA A5 rating or above.



Synthetic motor doesn't just last longer, it provides superior engine protection from the start of the oil change interval. Usually it also provides slightly better gas mileage also.
 

Gene

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Remember when you use the Techron fuel additive, Drive out on the highway at a nice even speed so the Palisade
engine goes into the Atkinson cycle for a little ways anyway.
Google the Atkinson cycle see how it works, very interesting for those who don't know what it is or how it works.
Techron is great for the injectors but for it to work on the intake valves, it has to get to the back side of the valves.
Since the gas is injected directly into the cylinder it doesn't get to the back side of the intake valve.
Everyone thinks of the Atkinson cycle engine for saving fuel, But there is another advantage with a GDI engine
When in the Atkinson cycle during the compression stroke the intake valve stays open just for a very limited time
this allows a small amount of fuel air, Techron to enter the intake manifold and get drawn back across the back
side of the intake valve on the next intake stroke. Helping to clean the valve. Granted it is a small amount but every little bit helps
until Hyundai starts using the dual GDI, MDI induction systems in the Palisade, this is the best we have.
My last Hyundai GDI engine, I put 170,000 miles on it before I sold it. used regular gas, Techron once every 6 months
in regular 5W30 oil. Last I knew it was still being driven and that didn't have the advantage of the Atkinson cycle.
 
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Alan_F

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Remember when you use the Techron fuel additive, Drive out on the highway at a nice even speed so the Palisade
engine goes into the Atkinson cycle for a little ways anyway.
Google the Atkinson cycle see how it works, very interesting for those who don't know what it is or how it works.
Techron is great for the injectors but for it to work on the intake valves, it has to get to the back side of the valves.
Since the gas is injected directly into the cylinder it doesn't get to the back side of the intake valve.
Everyone thinks of the Atkinson cycle engine for saving fuel, But there is another advantage with a GDI engine
When in the Atkinson cycle during the compression stroke the intake valve stays open just for a very limited time
this allows a small amount of fuel air, Techron to enter the intake manifold and get drawn back across the back
side of the intake valve on the next intake stroke. Helping to clean the valve. Granted it is a small amount but every little bit helps
until Hyundai starts using the dual GDI, MDI induction systems in the Palisade, this is the best we have.
My last Hyundai GDI engine, I put 170,000 miles on it before I sold it. used regular gas, Techron once every 6 months
in regular 5W30 oil. Last I knew it was still being driven and that didn't have the advantage of the Atkinson cycle.
Hyundai seems to be switching to new engine design (way beyond Atkinson), which includes both GDI and MPi (multiport injection) in order to make sure that gas is sometimes flowing over the back of the intake valves. The MPi used when the car is idling or at slow RPM. This technology is available now with the Hyundai (and Kia) 2.5T 4 cylinder engine, available on higher end Santa Fe models, and other Hyundai and Kia vehicles. I believe that Toyota was one of the pioneers of this technology, which has been available on many of their V6 engines for several years now. I would expect to see it used on other Hyundai/Kia engines in the future.
 

Eric2203

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Hyundai seems to be switching to new engine design (way beyond Atkinson), which includes both GDI and MPi (multiport injection) in order to make sure that gas is sometimes flowing over the back of the intake valves. The MPi used when the car is idling or at slow RPM. This technology is available now with the Hyundai (and Kia) 2.5T 4 cylinder engine, available on higher end Santa Fe models, and other Hyundai and Kia vehicles. I believe that Toyota was one of the pioneers of this technology, which has been available on many of their V6 engines for several years now. I would expect to see it used on other Hyundai/Kia engines in the future.
That doesn't imply that they're switching to it. They only choose to do it on some motors. For example, the new Sonata comes with the 2.5L you mentioned (in both turbo and non-turbo variants), but also the 1.6L turbo, which is only GDI.
 

Alan_F

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That doesn't imply that they're switching to it. They only choose to do it on some motors. For example, the new Sonata comes with the 2.5L you mentioned (in both turbo and non-turbo variants), but also the 1.6L turbo, which is only GDI.
Correct, there is no guarantee that they will switch to that dual injector (GDI and MPi) technology on all engines. But given the advantages, I can't see why they wouldn't. Toyota seems to be moving in the same direction. It's a big change, and they can't just change all their engines at once.
 

Eric2203

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Correct, there is no guarantee that they will switch to that dual injector (GDI and MPi) technology on all engines. But given the advantages, I can't see why they wouldn't. Toyota seems to be moving in the same direction. It's a big change, and they can't just change all their engines at once.
I don’t know about that. Their new SmartStream line of engines doesn’t have that many GDI & MPI motors in it and it’s brand new: Hyundai Smartstream engine - Wikipedia
 

elp_jc

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Both my F-150 Platinum 3.5EB, and Bullitt 5.0V8, had dual FI, and they've had it since 2017, I believe.

Going back to the subject, if you wait at least a day to check the oil, no need to wipe it and reinsert it. But the main problem for checking NEW oil on Hyundai/Kia vehicles (due to the dipstick design, I guess) is to actually see where the level is. That requires a very bright LED, and to rotate the dipstick several times to confirm what you think you saw. Ha ha. And yes, the best way is to check it after at least a full day, so you don't have to remove it, wipe it, and reinsert it, since it'd be smeared with the oil you left when pulling it out :). That's what I do, and it's been accurate for a while. Hope this helps.
 

Alan_F

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Both my F-150 Platinum 3.5EB, and Bullitt 5.0V8, had dual FI, and they've had it since 2017, I believe.

Going back to the subject, if you wait at least a day to check the oil, no need to wipe it and reinsert it. But the main problem for checking NEW oil on Hyundai/Kia vehicles (due to the dipstick design, I guess) is to actually see where the level is. That requires a very bright LED, and to rotate the dipstick several times to confirm what you think you saw. Ha ha. And yes, the best way is to check it after at least a full day, so you don't have to remove it, wipe it, and reinsert it, since it'd be smeared with the oil you left when pulling it out :). That's what I do, and it's been accurate for a while. Hope this helps.
I completely agree with your comments about the best way to check the oil level.

Not sure what you mean by duel FI on the Ford. The problem started when manufacturers started switching to GDI (gasoline direct injection) for better fuel economy and better HP, but they soon found it that intake valves on GDI tend to have carbon build-up because the gas (with detergents) no longer washes over the back of the intake valve (used for air only on a pure GDI engine).
 

elp_jc

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Dual FUEL INJECTION; exactly what you're talking about. They've had it since 2017. Not a Ford guy here, but just saying.
 

VLA24

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This is my first Hyundai…I fell in life with the look of the Palisade. I have read numerous comments and haven’t noticed, nor did I find in my manual…is there no “Oil Life” indicator?
Also my oil was always going down. After having to go have the Oil Consumption tested for 8,000km Hyundai replaced the bottom half of my engine. Seems fine now
 

Alan_F

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This is my first Hyundai…I fell in life with the look of the Palisade. I have read numerous comments and haven’t noticed, nor did I find in my manual…is there no “Oil Life” indicator?
Also my oil was always going down. After having to go have the Oil Consumption tested for 8,000km Hyundai replaced the bottom half of my engine. Seems fine now
The oil change frequency is listed in the manuals and is based on mileage and/or elapsed time.
 
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