Tow Hitch Pictures

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jcsummer

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Anyone have the tow hitch installed? Could you share a picture? The limited pictures I find on line indicate that it is very noticeable.
 

Dallas

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Has anyone installed a 7-prong connector to tow a trailer with electric brakes? The manual (and sales literature and reviews) says that a Palisade can tow 5000 pounds with electric brakes, but there is no wiring for the connector required for electric brakes. My car has been at the dealer for two weeks while they try to figure this out.
 

Mikeg112

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Has anyone installed a 7-prong connector to tow a trailer with electric brakes? The manual (and sales literature and reviews) says that a Palisade can tow 5000 pounds with electric brakes, but there is no wiring for the connector required for electric brakes. My car has been at the dealer for two weeks while they try to figure this out.
I have, the dealer really isn’t the best resource for doing a 7-pin as to my knowledge Hyundai doesn’t do any accommodations for 7-pin connections on their vehicles, including the palisade. Recommend you check out the link to a separate post I made on my install experience (one post before yours), basically you’ll need to take it to a specialized trailer shop and have them run three additional wires to make it work with a brake controller and electric brakes. All of the Santa Fe 2013-19 LWB owners had the same experience. I researched it and the manual recommends to take it to a trailer shop to ensure you don’t void the warranty. I plan on taking my 4,000 lb travel trailer out this weekend and can post my results.
 

Dallas

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I have, the dealer really isn’t the best resource for doing a 7-pin as to my knowledge Hyundai doesn’t do any accommodations for 7-pin connections on their vehicles, including the palisade. Recommend you check out the link to a separate post I made on my install experience (one post before yours), basically you’ll need to take it to a specialized trailer shop and have them run three additional wires to make it work with a brake controller and electric brakes. All of the Santa Fe 2013-19 LWB owners had the same experience. I researched it and the manual recommends to take it to a trailer shop to ensure you don’t void the warranty. I plan on taking my 4,000 lb travel trailer out this weekend and can post my results.
I just got off the phone with my dealer who told me that the installation is complete. I'm going to check it out with my 1000-lb flatbed. I'm very interested in your experience with your trailer. I find it really odd (or unthinking) that they would advertise a vehicle capability and not provide it. I'm surprised that there hasn't been some kind of action about that.
 

Dallas

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The installation is complete and the wiring checks out, at least with a test light. HOWEVER, I am using a Tekonsha P3 proportional controller. The installation instructions say that the controller is to be mounted flat, right side up and in the direction of travel. There is a intertial sensor in the controller and it needs to know which way is up and where it's pointed. There aren't a lot of flat-spot mounting options in the cockpit. Does anyone have any suggestions for where to mount it so it is viewable, flat and pointed in the right direction?
 

haymaker

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Installed Curt Hitch Part #13427 $236 CDN, Class 3. On the weekend. I purchased the Curt as it was a much cleaner look than factory. Install took about 45 mins.
Drop the tire, took two bolts off exhaust, slide one of the hangers off and able to fit in the hitch with out removing the exhaust.

Still waiting for the harness.
Tekonsha Part# 118784 $58 CDN

Hope these photos help
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NVS

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Looks nice. I've been looking around for a good one. Do you happened to know if installing an aftermarket hitch void the warranty
 

saxman242

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Do you happened to know if installing an aftermarket hitch void the warranty
That's not how warranties work. If you have an issue that occurs that is directly related to the hitch (damage to the frame where it attaches, etc), that would not be covered under warranty, but they can't just void the warranty on the vehicle because you installed something.
 

djmclean13

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I installed the Stealth Hitch. their plug-in wiring harness will accommodate both 4 wire and 7 wire. It is totally invisible from the rear of the vehicle. What I haven't figured out yet is how to get to a reverse wire so my electric surge brakes will disable in reverse. I haven't figured out how to access the reverse light access. Any ideas?
 

djmclean13

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here is a vid with the details.


Great video on the hitch itself. Is there anything regarding the wiring harness to make it a 7-pin or 5-pin and where the easiest place is to attach the purple wire to a reverse light source for electric deactivation of the trailer surge brakes? The 4-pin is simple since it just plugs into the factory wiring harness.
 

getsgo83

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Great video on the hitch itself. Is there anything regarding the wiring harness to make it a 7-pin or 5-pin and where the easiest place is to attach the purple wire to a reverse light source for electric deactivation of the trailer surge brakes? The 4-pin is simple since it just plugs into the factory wiring harness.
I'm having this exact same issue/question as I've attempted to install my Stealth Hitch this weekend. I got stuck on the wiring install, knowing that I need the purple wire to splice into the reverse lights in order for my surge brake actuator to avoid locking up the brakes anytime I need to back the trailer up on level ground or up a slight incline.

In reading up on this general topic, you should be able to tap into the reverse light wiring from the tail lights.... and in theory I think this should be fairly easy to do on the driver side of the vehicle since the reverse lights are so low to the ground on the Palisade. I looked up through an opening from underneath the vehicle and I can easily see where the bulb goes into the reverse light housing - so it seems pretty accessible directly behind the gravel guard in which the trailer wiring harness gets installed. I believe I need what's called a wire "tap" in order to do this, but if possible I want to avoid buying a circuit tester just to find the correct wire (anybody here have any experience with this yet?).

Also, I've heard some higher end vehicles can get fussy and possibly throw an alert if you do this directly into one of the reverse light wires, particularly if you're drawing any amount of amperage through it (however in this case I don't believe that's the case, so it SHOULD be ok just for the sake of a surge brake actuator). Either way, I want to make sure I do it the right way - and I'm trying to avoid paying a couple hundred bucks for a shop to do what I'm positive would take them 5-10 minutes to complete.

@djmclean13 looks like you finally got your install taken care of somehow..... any advice here, or did you wind up having to take it into a shop?
 
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djmclean13

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I'm having this exact same issue/question as I've attempted to install my Stealth Hitch this weekend. I got stuck on the wiring install, knowing that I need the purple wire to splice into the reverse lights in order for my surge brake actuator to avoid locking up the brakes anytime I need to back the trailer up on level ground or up a slight incline.

In reading up on this general topic, you should be able to tap into the reverse light wiring from the tail lights.... and in theory I think this should be fairly easy to do on the driver side of the vehicle since the reverse lights are so low to the ground on the Palisade. I looked up through an opening from underneath the vehicle and I can easily see where the bulb goes into the reverse light housing - so it seems pretty accessible directly behind the gravel guard in which the trailer wiring harness gets installed. I believe I need what's called a wire "tap" in order to do this, but if possible I want to avoid buying a circuit tester just to find the correct wire (anybody here have any experience with this yet?).

Also, I've heard some higher end vehicles can get fussy and possibly throw an alert if you do this directly into one of the reverse light wires, particularly if you're drawing any amount of amperage through it (however in this case I don't believe that's the case, so it SHOULD be ok just for the sake of a surge brake actuator). Either way, I want to make sure I do it the right way - and I'm trying to avoid paying a couple hundred bucks for a shop to do what I'm positive would take them 5-10 minutes to complete.

@djmclean13 looks like you finally got your install taken care of somehow..... any advice here, or did you wind up having to take it into a shop?

I also found that location to tap into the reverse light behind the gravel guard. It is fairly difficult to reach and access without knowing which wire to tap into. I know that those reverse lights on the Limited are the only non-LEDs so it isn't supposed hurt to tap into. I haven't gone back to finish the purple reverse light wire yet. I too would like to know which specific wire to tap into. so if/when someone does it, let us know.
 

djmclean13

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I also found that location to tap into the reverse light behind the gravel guard. It is fairly difficult to reach and access without knowing which wire to tap into. I know that those reverse lights on the Limited are the only non-LEDs so it isn't supposed hurt to tap into. I haven't gone back to finish the purple reverse light wire yet. I too would like to know which specific wire to tap into. so if/when someone does it, let us know.

Okay, getsgo83, I finally took the time to hook up the purple wire to the reverse light to deactivate the surge brakes while backing up. The simple answer is to splice into the red w/black stripe wire. The longer explanation with pics follows:

I decided to tap in on the driver's side under the gravel guard. While doing so, I also replaced the incandescent bulb with an LED bulb (on both sides).

Once the gravel guard is removed (pop the center of the three plastic push connectors, then pull them out of the guard, then just pull the gravel guard straight down. No need to unscrew the nuts, they are pretty much push connectors also.)

I then removed the bulb socket by twisting counter-clockwise (kind of hard to get into a position and still twist, but it can be done by hand)

The pigtail to the bulb connector goes through a strain connection on the light assembly, I removed the pigtail from the strain connection point by manipulating until it released.

I followed the pigtail to a plug-in connector on the side toward the license plate. Squeeze the top of the connector and pull the connector apart. This will give you some length to work with. I removed the plastic protective sleeve and electrical tape from the wires to expose a black wire and a red w/black stripe wire. I tapped into the red w/blk and connected to the Stealth wiring harness purple wire.

I reconnected the pinch connector and tested the presence of 12v at the 7-pin hitch connector I installed on my car and used a 7-pin to 5-pin adaptor (also has a 4-pin) The 5th pin registered 12v when the vehicle is running and placed in reverse. I again removed the pinch connector and taped all the wires back into place and replaced the protective plastic wire sleeve. I did have to cut the sleeve to make it fit.

Plugged everything back in and again checked for 12v at the hitch connection. Reverse LEDs work great and so does the hitch connector.

Good luck! Let us know if you also have success.

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Zenar

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I am going with the Curt hitch, after further investigation the stealth hitch is a clean looking hitch but is't rated for weight distribution which is what i currently use with my trailer.
 

Roadster

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I talked with the owner and he does not support Weight distribution or anti sway. Who would want to tow a 5k trailer without sway control. I do not.
 

Zenar

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I talked with the owner and he does not support Weight distribution or anti sway. Who would want to tow a 5k trailer without sway control. I do not.
I agree with you, why would anyone pay more for the stealth hitch and cannot tow anything over 2k... I wouldn't tow anything over 2k, without sway control.
 

getsgo83

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Okay, getsgo83, I finally took the time to hook up the purple wire to the reverse light to deactivate the surge brakes while backing up. The simple answer is to splice into the red w/black stripe wire. The longer explanation with pics follows:

I decided to tap in on the driver's side under the gravel guard. While doing so, I also replaced the incandescent bulb with an LED bulb (on both sides).

Once the gravel guard is removed (pop the center of the three plastic push connectors, then pull them out of the guard, then just pull the gravel guard straight down. No need to unscrew the nuts, they are pretty much push connectors also.)

I then removed the bulb socket by twisting counter-clockwise (kind of hard to get into a position and still twist, but it can be done by hand)

The pigtail to the bulb connector goes through a strain connection on the light assembly, I removed the pigtail from the strain connection point by manipulating until it released.

I followed the pigtail to a plug-in connector on the side toward the license plate. Squeeze the top of the connector and pull the connector apart. This will give you some length to work with. I removed the plastic protective sleeve and electrical tape from the wires to expose a black wire and a red w/black stripe wire. I tapped into the red w/blk and connected to the Stealth wiring harness purple wire.

I reconnected the pinch connector and tested the presence of 12v at the 7-pin hitch connector I installed on my car and used a 7-pin to 5-pin adaptor (also has a 4-pin) The 5th pin registered 12v when the vehicle is running and placed in reverse. I again removed the pinch connector and taped all the wires back into place and replaced the protective plastic wire sleeve. I did have to cut the sleeve to make it fit.

Plugged everything back in and again checked for 12v at the hitch connection. Reverse LEDs work great and so does the hitch connector.

Good luck! Let us know if you also have success.

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@djmclean13 - thanks dude, that was exactly what I needed. I just got my reverse light wire installed today as well. The only difference I noted is that my two wire colors were solid gray and black with white stripe. I tapped into the black and white with success. It lit up the proper indicator light on my wiring tester only when the vehicle was in reverse, with no warning lights going off in the dash. Not sure why the colors differed between our vehicles but it seems the striped wire is what you will want to tap into.

I included a pic of the wires.

Thanks again!

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