Wiring Harness / Curt Hitch

[elp_jc]

I also did it inside the garage, with no ramps or anything. I'm thin, so enough room to work comfortably. And since I was doing it by myself, less lifting involved. The gap is not huge, but if you're not paying attention, probably wouldn't notice it . I also removed the heat shield, thinking I'd be able to reinstall it after the hitch, but found out the hard way that's not possible. That's also when I noticed the excessive gap, so didn't have to take down the hitch except once. The black cover on the left side also didn't fit normally, but was able to manhandle it into position without having to alter anything. One of the left bolts was hitting it above in the middle. I was able to fix everything, and the fit was fantastic after the adaptations, so happy with the job and product .

Finally got the correct ball mount, which was Curt 45050. Bought it at Walmart for 22 bucks. It has 4" drop, but mine only has 2.5" rise, so it seems to be about 1/4" off. So got 16-3/4" from the ground, but with the ball, it's right where both U-Haul and Kendon say it should be, which is 18-1/2 to 18-3/4 from floor to the middle of the ball for U-Haul (mine is right between those 2 measurements), and Kendon says 19-21" from floor to top of the ball, and mine is 19-3/4", so right on the ballpark. Oh, and it's 8-1/4 between holes, which puts it as close as possible to the bumper, while being far enough. Just need to get the ball tighten. I think will use that as an excuse to buy a cordless impact wrench (DeWalt DCF894), but need to order a 1-1/2" impact socket, for the big nut.

 

[Timmayyy]

I ordered an E2 stabilizer sway hitch from fastway. Apparently the ball needs to be tightened to 450ft lbs for mine (I believe the smaller shanks are tightened to 250ft lbs, but always check the manufacturer as this is an important spec.) and I sadly don't have a torque wrench that goes up that high, and they are very expensive. I checked the loan-a-tool deal from auto zone but they don't offer them either. I will probably just take it to a diesel shop and pay them to torque that ball. It's a one time thing (hopefully), so no big deal.

 

[elp_jc]

What size ball shank is that? That's A LOT. And yes, the 1" shank balls call for 250 ft/lbs, but the few times I've seen folks at U-haul tighten those suckers, they just used a big wrench; no torque wrenches at all. Once they're tight, they won't move with those big a$$ locking nuts. Once they're flattened, you'd be very close. I'm going to buy an impact wrench, tighten it to 150 ft/lbs (which is the max on speed 1), then give it a few (trrrrrrrr's) on speed 2, which goes to 330 ft/lbs. The trailer I plan to haul would only weigh like 1K -lbs, so not critical in my case .

Hey gang, so none of you have lowered the spare tire, so you can comment if the mechanism 'clicked' when tightening the tire back up? I didn't want to ruin mine, when it started creaking, so backed off a little. But maybe it takes more torque, until it clicks. But don't want to try it, unless I know it will. Thank you.
JC

 

[Mr. iNCREDIBLE]

What size ball shank is that? That's A LOT. And yes, the 1" shank balls call for 250 ft/lbs, but the few times I've seen folks at U-haul tighten those suckers, they just used a big wrench; no torque wrenches at all. Once they're tight, they won't move with those big a$$ locking nuts. Once they're flattened, you'd be very close. I'm going to buy an impact wrench, tighten it to 150 ft/lbs (which is the max on speed 1), then give it a few (trrrrrrrr's) on speed 2, which goes to 330 ft/lbs. The trailer I plan to haul would only weigh like 1K -lbs, so not critical in my case .

Hey gang, so none of you have lowered the spare tire, so you can comment if the mechanism 'clicked' when tightening the tire back up? I didn't want to ruin mine, when it started creaking, so backed off a little. But maybe it takes more torque, until it clicks. But don't want to try it, unless I know it will. Thank you.
JC

I had to shimmy mine back and forth as i cranked it up to get it to properly seat between the hitch. once the hitch was installed the tire doesn't go up straight.. it gets bound up.

 

[elp_jc]

Mine went up fine, but just doesn't 'click', even when cranked hard with a 3/8" ratchet, which is quite a bit shorter than the stock tool you're supposed to use, hence my question. I looked up, and the cable seemed to be right above the hole of the tire, or pretty close. The tire is offset to the left, even without the hitch, due to the muffler. My tire is almost touching the hitch tube near the muffler, but I can slide a piece of paper between them, so all looks well. It's pretty close all around, but the hitch doesn't seem to interfere with the spare at all.

So when you cranked the tire up, it didn't click for you either??? How hard did you crank it? Hope I didn't do any damage to mine. Thx.

 

[Mr. iNCREDIBLE]

Mine went up fine, but just doesn't 'click', even when cranked hard with a 3/8" ratchet, which is quite a bit shorter than the stock tool you're supposed to use, hence my question. I looked up, and the cable seemed to be right above the hole of the tire, or pretty close. The tire is offset to the left, even without the hitch, due to the muffler. My tire is almost touching the hitch tube near the muffler, but I can slide a piece of paper between them, so all looks well. It's pretty close all around, but the hitch doesn't seem to interfere with the spare at all.

So when you cranked the tire up, it didn't click for you either??? How hard did you crank it? Hope I didn't do any damage to mine. Thx.

I don't remember any click, now you have me wondering. guess I will have to go out and check.

 

[elp_jc]

Awesome . And if you could please use a 3/8" ratchet with a 13/16" socket, it'd be great, to see approx how much force you're applying. Thanks brother.

 

[Mr. iNCREDIBLE]

Awesome . And if you could please use a 3/8" ratchet with a 13/16" socket, it'd be great, to see approx how much force you're applying. Thanks brother.

asking for the moon. lol.

I used the OEM tool last time. I will see if I can dig up a ratchet at work, , but FYI it's Metric, so 21mm

 

[elp_jc]

Mine is 13/16", just like the wheel lug nuts. Fits like a glove, like it should . Yes, 21mm works, but the correct size is 13/16". It doesn't matter with the spare tire nut, but for sure it matters with the lug nuts. Give it a try; MUCH better to be tight, than loose. It's not that critical for 90 ft/lbs IF NOT using an impact wrench, but you're putting more stress on the nuts regardless, since the contact surface is quite a bit less. But it's your car .

 

[Mr. iNCREDIBLE]

Mine is 13/16", just like the wheel lug nuts. Fits like a glove, like it should . Yes, 21mm works, but the correct size is 13/16". It doesn't matter with the spare tire nut, but for sure it matters with the lug nuts. Give it a try; MUCH better to be tight, than loose. It's not that critical for 90 ft/lbs IF NOT using an impact wrench, but you're putting more stress on the nuts regardless, since the contact surface is quite a bit less. But it's your car .

then it would be 20mm, everything on these cars is metric zero SAE.

13/16mm is between 20mm and 21mm, so 20mm would be the tightest.

 

[Timmayyy]

Mine never clicked, and I just checked and it's still tight after 3k miles.

 

[elp_jc]

then it would be 20mm, everything on these cars is metric zero SAE. 13/16mm is between 20mm and 21mm, so 20mm would be the tightest.

Man, you're more stubborn than a donkey (ha ha), even when facts hit you in the face. Below is double proof you're wrong, even when you could have easily just try a freaking 13/16" socket before posting. That's what you need to use to prevent damage to the lug nuts, especially if using an impact wrench, but do whatever you want . This is my 8th Hyundai/Kia, including the vehicles I've bought for my daughters, and they've always used 13/16" lug nuts, by the way.

Mine never clicked, and I just checked and it's still tight after 3k miles.

Good to hear; many thanks. But may I ask you how hard did you crank the thing? When I was trying to make it click, I went quite hard with my hand about halfway of the 3/8" ratchet, so I didn't apply a tremendous amount of force, but heard some creaking noises that made me stop immediately. Wish there was a specific torque figure, like on everything else. Oh well. Thanks man.

 

[Timmayyy]

Sorry man, but having lived in Korea before, also visited about a dozen times (I actually went to the Seoul motor show in 2012) and having my certification as an auto service technician, I can say these cars are 100% metric.

 

[elp_jc]

I'm a mechanical engineer, and thought so too, but I happen to have eyes, and I believe what they see . Keep using your metric sockets if you want, even when the facts prove a 13/16" socket fits perfectly. Discussion over.

 

[Eric2203]

Here's the PDF install guide for the Palisade wheel locks: https://www.hyundaiaccessories.com/...tionSheets/u8440_00501.pdf?cts=20210518041948

It says 21mm.

 

[elp_jc]

So use the 21mm then, even though you know the 13/16 fits better. Nice thinking. Ha ha. But to each his own.

Anyway, will just keep an eye on the spare tire. It could become less tight as it loses pressure, but will check it often. It's easy to check for tightness just sticking my hand under there.

 

[Timmayyy]

Just to show (like you showed) these sockets fit too. It says 21 on the chrome one, and 21/19mm on the flip socket but they are kind of hard to read though as I have used them for just over 20 years.

 

[saxman242]

So use the 21mm then, even though you know the 13/16 fits better. Nice thinking. Ha ha. But to each his own.

Man, you're more stubborn than a donkey, even when facts hit you in the face. Above is triple proof you're wrong.

 

[Timmayyy]

Man, you're more stubborn than a donkey, even when facts hit you in the face. Above is triple proof you're wrong.

I bet a 4cylinder would fit better in the engine bay.

 

[ExtraMike]

The flat 4pin trailer harness from Tekonsha is good if you tow less than 3500lbs, and/or tow a trailer without trailer brakes (trailer brakes are required if towing over 3500lbs I believe.) The 7-pin is for towing with trailer brakes, and also has an integrated power circuit which is commonly used for power tongue jacks, and to charge accessory batteries (like for camper trailers.) The 4-pin harness I was talking about is the plug with 4 exposed wires that plugs in under the dash and the 4 exposed wires are then spliced into your brake controller of choice. The one in the picture above (part# S9F67 AC060) comes with part # S9F67 AC500. It is in the upper left of the picture above but still in the bag in my picture. I didn't use it yet because right now I am using the curt echo bluetooth controller, but may change later to a wired controller. I paid $145 (ish) shipped from kia.parts out of Arizona. They shipped quick too.

Only commenting to help others reading this post later, the 2022 Palisade is only good to 1650lbs without brakes on the trailer. https://www.headquarterhyundai.com/research/new-hyundai-palisade-towing-capacity/