FFEMT6
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Yeah they do.
Just an update after I installed the foam core insulation.
1. When I bought the car, I did a test drive. No wind noise, no whistle. After driving for 2 months, developed moderate wind noise and slight whistle.
2. Installed foam core in the inner and outer channel as shown in previously posted video.
3. End result is no whistle, wind noise reduced by about 70%. I'm pleased.
4. Interestingly, I can completely eliminate the remaining wind noise by turning on re-circulation.
One discovery I made that may be helpful to some: In my first attempt, I incorrectly installed the outer foam core on the driver's side (didn't insert it all the way into the channel). When I took it for a test drive there was a VERY LOUD whistle . I discovered the foam was preventing the driver's side window from seating correctly in the channel creating the whistle. I wasn't sure what was wrong at first. I tried manually seating the window into the top of the track by pushing at the top...and that FIXED the whistle. Later I realized my mistake and corrected the foam installation and everything was great. My thought: Maybe those experiencing the really loud whistle are having an issue with the window seating correctly at the top of the track. Mine was caused by incorrectly installing the foam, but may yours is caused by a defect in the material at the top of the window track. A simple experiment of manually pushing the window to better seat in the top of the track should change the whistle sound if this is your problem. IJust a thought for anyone experiencing the really loud whistle.
1. When I bought the car, I did a test drive. No wind noise, no whistle. After driving for 2 months, developed moderate wind noise and slight whistle.
2. Installed foam core in the inner and outer channel as shown in previously posted video.
3. End result is no whistle, wind noise reduced by about 70%. I'm pleased.
4. Interestingly, I can completely eliminate the remaining wind noise by turning on re-circulation.
One discovery I made that may be helpful to some: In my first attempt, I incorrectly installed the outer foam core on the driver's side (didn't insert it all the way into the channel). When I took it for a test drive there was a VERY LOUD whistle . I discovered the foam was preventing the driver's side window from seating correctly in the channel creating the whistle. I wasn't sure what was wrong at first. I tried manually seating the window into the top of the track by pushing at the top...and that FIXED the whistle. Later I realized my mistake and corrected the foam installation and everything was great. My thought: Maybe those experiencing the really loud whistle are having an issue with the window seating correctly at the top of the track. Mine was caused by incorrectly installing the foam, but may yours is caused by a defect in the material at the top of the window track. A simple experiment of manually pushing the window to better seat in the top of the track should change the whistle sound if this is your problem. IJust a thought for anyone experiencing the really loud whistle.
I think your theory could be right in some cars. I’ve tried:
1) pushing mine
2) examining all the touch points (door to body)
3) Taping off some sections with painters tape
Recirculating does help, but it seems it just moves the mph of the problem higher. So instead of starting at 45mph it now starts at 60mph.
The other issue that gives me pause is it gets worse over time. The longer you own it, the worse it gets. So that leads me to:
1) If it truly is something to do with the door, then why is the door shifting out of alignment over time?
2) If it’s the seals, then same question. Are they just inferior materials or shifting around due to another reason.
3) Recirculating helps insulate the cabin pressure. It seems that this would have the opposite effect of not allowing the vehicle to naturally equalize. Why does this seem to help? Was the vehicle improperly engineered to equalize pressure? That’s a potentially larger isssue than seals.
Overall this issue for me was the driving reason to press eject on my ownership experience. It just feels/seems too big to solve so far for Hyundai engineers and most owners. I’m glad that some owners have found weather stripping + door adjustments + new seals + new glass tracks + recirc A/C to fix 50%, 70% and in some cases 100%.
I was and still am a fan of the car, but even after reading some recent posts I keep wondering when the noise is coming back. When the door falls out of alignment again, when home-spun weatherstripping, not designing for repeated 70mph winds fails? Really need to see Hyundai post the “MISSION ACCOMPLISHED” banner.
Many great points by yourself and Neil..tks to both..
Some on this forum are brighter than the Hyundai engineers,
I'm in Operations at work for a fairly large company (12K associates). When presented with a problem, I try to ask 5 "why" questions before leaping in to solve. Usually after 5 you start getting in to the "core issues". I love puzzles and this Hyundai Palisade is a big one. I wish I could solve it, but this isn't my area of expertise.
Looking to buy a Limited and need some advice, please. Took one out for a 45 minute test drive in NJ, got it up to 80 on the Parkway and didn’t hear any wind noise, but at 3 or 4 other times, at much slower speeds, I did hear a noticeable whistle through drivers door, but it would only last maybe 10 seconds then go away. To be fair, it was unusually windy out. Aside from what I'm hearing of this wind noise issue, I love the Palisade. What should I do -
- Try to use this wind noise issue as a bargaining chip for a better price
- Demand that the dealer acknowledge the issue and do something to fix it before I buy; I’ll never have more leverage than I do now.
- Forget the whole thing and buy a Jeep
I would not buy a jeep...wait for the 2021 Palisade if you can. The dealer is aware of the noise prob.although may not admit it.speak with service advisor
Ask if fix is coming. Of course it is bargaining chip, but the Limited may be in short supply..
That’s highly unlikely.
Well I don't exactly know your needs so I might be going in a bad direction here for you but you can decide:
1) It'll never be a bargain chip with the dealer. Frankly the sales guys don't care about the wind noise nor should they. They're looking at how long the vehicle sits in inventory. This is a cash flow + inventory turn game for them, not a place for them to debate the engineering.
2) There's already a TSB so the wind noise is fully acknowledged and has been for months. This is part of the issue, because it doesn't seem that there's an easy solution.
3) Every vehicle has quirks, there are lot's of 2 row SUV's that can be had for Palisade money, but very few 3 rows. If Jeep is in your consideration set then you must not need 3 rows. Now if you need 3 rows and have around $50K to spend I'd still rank 'em like this:
Hyundai Palisade (assuming no wind noise)
Kia Telluride (not as nice IMHO as the Pal'e)
Subaru Ascent
Mazda CX-9
Really after that group above, it's a 10 way tie of just sucky, dated or soul-sucking appliances masquerading as cars.
Buick Enclave
Infiniti QX60
Honda Pilot
Chevrolet Traverse
VW Atlas
Toyota Highlander
Dodge Durango
Toyota 4runner
Mitsubishi Outlander
Ford Explorer
davida1234
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Subaru Ascent???
That's like one of the most lame, home-brew looking and one of the most appliance-like driving SUVs out there. Where is the beef?
Mazda has some driving dynamics but it is more cramped in most dimensions than a lot of 2-row SUVs despite being the largest outside and I can not get over that overbite front end. It is also getting quite dated.
That's like one of the most lame, home-brew looking and one of the most appliance-like driving SUVs out there. Where is the beef?
Mazda has some driving dynamics but it is more cramped in most dimensions than a lot of 2-row SUVs despite being the largest outside and I can not get over that overbite front end. It is also getting quite dated.
You are apparently
If you think you know better than the people who engineered the Palisade, you’re delusional. And I’m being nice.
Well of course you are being nice, just take a deep breath ..exhale slowly..relax,everthing will be fine .
My problem with the wind noise in my Limited has always been what seems like the sound air escaping through the gap between the windows and the "sill" (inside bottom gap), and the only thing that has worked for me has been using a strip of the caulk backer inserted into that gap. Obviously this doesn't last long as the backer gets compressed, and you have to pull it out if you want to open the window, this has been replaced by the Frost King rubber weather stripping, placed along that gap as close to the windows as possible without impeding the window travel. I have done this to all four window and for the time being "my" wind noise problem is addressed. I don't know how long this will last before I have to do it again due to the possibility of heat and the adhesive.
I have tried adding weather stripping around the door, and it didn't help in my case, and of course the TSB work did nothing...
I have tried adding weather stripping around the door, and it didn't help in my case, and of course the TSB work did nothing...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...ickid=Ua31X3UwnxyOR5qwUx0Mo34HUki2xJ2fHUcszc0
ckon
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I'm a little bit confused. Are you saying that you have to remove the foam to open the windows? If so, something's in the wrong place cuz I have the black foam rope installed in every place I could fit it in the front and rear and all still operate smoothly with everything in place. Maybe I just misread something.
The caulk backer was inserted intothe gap where the window goes into the door. That was the only place (for me) that blocked the noise. This was replaced by an adhesive strip that solved the problem.
This is not my photo, but it looks the same.
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I always find this argument about the CX9 hilarious. After having one for 2 years, there was absolutely nothing special about how it drove.
And beyond that, it was a miserable vehicle.
ckon
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I have rope in that channel and it's not visible nor does it interfere with any operation of the window. However, it does push the edge of the channel outward to achieve a better seal. It's hard to tell from that pic whether we're talking about the same area.
Maybe this shows it better:
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Great and thoughtful insight. Motor Trend, Car and Driver, Cars.com, Edmunds and other automotive journalists see it differently. No right or wrong just a different opinion. Your view point is interesting though.
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